Home
Sunday February 01, 2015


I like to joke with Cody that we are like two little Dowager Countesses of Grantham, touring around the country in our van, waking up and climbing at our leisure. 

So these few weeks have been a real shock to the Dowager Countesses systems: I started a rad, new job (remote, from the van) and Cody's been working double ER shifts to transition to a new hospital. Our friends are in Yosemite digging on this great weather, while we've been climbing in the gym and biking or running the Tilden Park trails to stay sane.

Until we get back to van living next week, here's a picture I just found, care of the lovely Mecia, of Cody earlier this month alone in the desert working A Clockwork Orange, V12. 


 ^^ Notice my impeccable spotting technique : D 

This week we headed back to Red Rocks for our friend Matt's birthday, some warm winter sandstone, and sweet, sweet Imperial Spa: a dreamscape of showers, sauna's, hot clay ball pits, and wifi. 

We mostly bouldered this trip, with Cody sending the highball Fear of a Black Hat, v9, and flashing the committing dyno problem $500, v8. Meanwhile, I sent my project, sandbagged Jones'n v4+. This marked what I call the tennis shoe event horizon - the first time I sent a project my husband couldn't lap in tennis shoes.

Since his clog grade is usually around v5, I'd like to say a big fuck you to the sandbaggers on Mountain Project. 

Did I take photo's of these feats of agility and strength? Of course not. All I've got is this photo of another bouldering snob in unnecessarily expensive outdoor wear:

Thanks for a great week, Red Rocks, made especially great by our friends Matt, Christine, Lucho, and Mecia for bringing the lolz.

PS - When Blixa was asked whether he had bouldered at Red Rocks before, he casually mentioned that he was "on the cover of the guidebook". At the time of this publication, the editors have been unable to locate the guidebook in reference.

Wednesday December 17, 2014

Last week in Red Rocks, I finished The Pearl, my first V5. Cody took some awesome photo's of me working out the moves:




In the past 2 weeks we've gone to Indian Creek, St. George, Red Rocks, the Hurricave, Limekiln Canyon, and Bishop. We climbed a whole bunch of rocks and baked brie with honey and fruit preserves in the Sprinter oven, like dirty little aristocrats of a van-living class. 

Cody on-sighted a bunch of neat stuff including Disco Machine Gun and also a 5.13b in Limekiln, but I was hanging out with a few billion new friends at home that day (the flu) and missed it : ( So instead all you get is a picture of me bouldering. Sorry!

As a final note today, it seems like every climber has a dog, some climbers BASE with their dogs, and every climbing blog has a Cutest Crag Dogs feature. I am here to say that crag dogs are played out, and I will not be featuring them on this blog. But you know what would be sweet? A crag hamster. Put that little guy on a cam-tether, crush your proj, come down and feed him a tiny pellet of grain. I'm trying to convince Cody to let me get a hamster to climb with. If you see him, please speak up in support of my campaign.

Post Script: Blixa is not a crag dog. He is a human being. Thank you and the end!

Monday November 24, 2014

Quotation marks because this week climbing has consisted of sitting in the van, watching the snow, and asking each other if it looks like it's letting up. We have driven through California, Nevada, Utah, and Colorado, aka cold, hmm still cold, ahhh still cold here, and WTFWTFWTFWTF.


We finally gave up and went to the gym. The new Walltopia gym in Grand Junction called Grand Valley Climbing Center is nice, and you should go if you're on the West side of CO and the weather sucks.


At least we went to these sweet hot springs in Nevada somewhere off in the desert a million miles from anything:




mutant hot spring koi? 



Monday November 10, 2014

That is not stopping us from taking the van out on the road. At 80% complete, the Apollo space shuttle (as it is known in these parts for its silvery, aeronautic exterior) is more than capable of sustaining human life.

So we did a great 5 day run - following the crisp November temps across the Sierra. I simply must recommend this itinerary for your November intra-planetary travel plans. 

We started in Yosemite valley where the leaves are falling, the Autumn light is turning the granite golden, and, quite pleasingly, I got to a new high point on my boulder project ("Who goes to Yosemite to boulder?", they say) while Cody went up El Cap to check out the lower crux pitches on El Corazon. 

On Saturday, our totally nutty and awesome friends Joanna and Will drove out from the city to meet us at Tioga Cliff, where we got that magical Autumn gift of cold, high-friction granite and warm sun. Here's Cody taking a lap on Silver Bullet.


When night came on, we made an obligatory pit stop at the Whoa Nelly Deli for what was potentially the best cheeseburger of my life, and then we did the only natural thing and drove down to Bishop to boulder under the stars and full moon. We met a couple of mini crushers from LA over on Grandma Peabody, one of whom succinctly summarized all my feelings about climbing when his dad asked him what else he would do that night if not keep trying Magnetic North: "NOT DIE". 

The youngsters assured Cody they'd see him up on El Cap soon : ) Hope so! As midnight crept up on us, we jetted back to the city for those job things we have, and now I'm sorely missing the sharp, Buttermilk granite. 

Really, I'm pretty sore.

This has been the first transmission from the space shuttle! Thanks for reading and see you soon : )